Questions clarified.Solutions simplified.

Same-day service across Bahçelievler, Bağcılar, Bakırköy, Güngören, Zeytinburnu, Esenler, Bayrampaşa and Küçükçekmece on Istanbul's European side. Call us for neighbouring districts.

Every boiler, AC and water-heater brand — DemirDöküm, Vaillant, Baymak, Protherm, E.C.A., Bosch, Buderus, Airfel, Ferroli, Viessmann and more. We spent 45 years as DemirDöküm and Vaillant authorised service; today we are independent.

No. We were DemirDöküm and Vaillant authorised service for many years; today we are an independent technical service for every brand. In-warranty work goes to the manufacturer's authorised service; we handle everything out of warranty.

After diagnosis, the work and any part cost are quoted clearly before we start. Nothing is done without your approval; parts are genuine and covered by a written guarantee. Maintenance and radiator flushing are fixed-price jobs.

Our phone and WhatsApp line is open 24/7 and the nearest technician is dispatched. If you smell gas: close the valve, open windows, do not touch switches, call from outside.

Yes. The team holds MYK vocational-qualification and Ministry of Education certificates; new technicians come through the EU-funded vocational course our founder İlhan Kaya teaches.

Yes — annual contracts for site managements, offices and shops with a pre-season calendar, fixed price, single report and priority fault line. See the Maintenance Contracts page.

Ideally before the heating season, in September–October, and once every year. A maintained boiler burns less gas, fails less, and most manufacturer warranties require annual service.

Heat-exchanger and burner cleaning, electrode check, fan and flue check, gas/air ratio by flue-gas analysis, expansion vessel and safety valve, hot-water circuit test, gas leak test and a written report. 45–60 minutes.

Usually a scaled plate heat exchanger, the flow sensor or the diverter valve. All are repairable — book a visit; you do not need a new boiler.

Usually not. Hot top and cold bottom means sludge in the system (power-flush); cold top and hot bottom means air (bleed). A pump or diverter-valve fault gives similar symptoms; the technician checks both in one visit.

Pressure should sit at 1–1.5 bar. Top up once and reset; if it keeps dropping there is a leak in the expansion vessel, safety valve or pipework. Constant topping-up increases scaling — book a visit.

Close the valves under the boiler and cut its power. The leak may come from the safety valve, pump seal, exchanger or condensate trap; if the flat below is at risk call the emergency line. Do not run a leaking boiler.

Overheat protection is tripping: scaled exchanger, low flow (blocked system/filter), thermostat settings or an oversized boiler. Check radiator valves are open; if it continues, book a visit.

Kettling means scale in the exchanger, gurgling means air or sludge in the system, whining points to the fan or pump. Ticking or banging suggests an ignition problem and needs a visit.

Check power, gas valve and water pressure, note the fault code and try one reset. The technician measures gas pressure, ionisation current, sensor resistances and flue draught to find the root cause — no swapping parts to see.

On a boiler over 15 years, with a cracked exchanger or a board and gas valve failing together, repair may not pay; a new condensing boiler burns noticeably less gas. After diagnosis we cost both options and leave the decision to you.

24 kW is common for an averagely insulated 100–120 m² flat; radiators, insulation and hot-water demand decide. An oversized boiler does not heat better — it short-cycles and burns more. We calculate at the survey.

Over the years magnetite sludge settles at the bottom of radiators, narrowing the flow and blocking heat transfer. Bleeding does not fix it — a machine power flush of radiators and pipework does.

Radiators far from the boiler or at the end of the run are hit by sludge first; a closed or seized valve or an unbalanced system also causes it. Check the temperature top vs bottom: cold bottom means sludge, cold top means air.

Immediately if you have symptoms; always before a new boiler; preventively every 5–7 years with boiler maintenance; at season start on systems left idle for long.

Maintenance is done on the appliance (exchanger, burner, settings). Flushing cleans the radiators and pipework with a machine. They solve different problems and can be planned in the same visit.

A sludge-dissolving chemical is circulated, a pumped flushing unit is connected, each radiator is flushed one by one with reverse flow, the filter is cleaned, inhibitor added, the system refilled, vented and balanced. No radiators removed; 2–4 hours.

System imbalance, sludge, closed or faulty radiator valves or undersized radiators. After flushing the system is balanced at the valves; for rooms still short we suggest a larger radiator or thermostatic valves.

Most often dirty filters and coils, a refrigerant leak, the outdoor fan or compressor, or a thermostat/remote setting. Clean the filters first; if it persists, book a leak test and service.

In heating mode the outdoor unit pauses during defrost; if it never heats, suspect the four-way valve, low refrigerant or an outdoor sensor. Heating capacity drops at very low outdoor temperatures — that is not a fault.

Usually a blocked drain hose or a unit installed without fall; a dirty evaporator also drips. Switch the AC off and book drain cleaning and a service.

Moisture, dust and mould in the evaporator and drain pan. Filter cleaning is not enough — the indoor coil needs chemical cleaning. A pre-season service prevents it.

A sealed system never loses refrigerant; if it is low there is a leak. The right job is a nitrogen leak test, repair, vacuum and a weighed charge to the label amount. Yearly 'top-ups' are not maintenance.

Before the cooling season in April–May, with a filter check mid-season under heavy use; twice a year for offices and shops. Service covers filter and coil cleaning, drain, refrigerant pressure and electrical connections.

Standard installation: indoor and outdoor brackets, copper pipe and cable up to a set length, drain, vacuum and first start. Extra pipe, an outdoor cage, façades needing lifts and a dedicated electrical line are priced separately at the survey.

Roughly 600–700 BTU per m²: 9,000 for 15–20 m², 12,000 for 20–30 m², 18,000 for 30–45 m². South-facing, high ceilings, glass area and occupancy push it up; we confirm at the survey.

On gas heaters: the battery (battery-ignition models), ignition electrode, gas valve, low water flow (it won't fire at low pressure) or the flue safety device. If there is no gas smell check the battery and valve; otherwise book a visit.

A scaled exchanger, low gas pressure, a turned-down flame or too high a flow rate. Descaling and a gas adjustment usually fix it; on storage heaters suspect the element or thermostat.

Flue safety thermostat (poor draught), overheat protection, ionisation loss or the flow sensor. On open-flue heaters this can be dangerous: switch off, ventilate and book a visit.

Modulation setting, scaled exchanger, low mains pressure or cold water mixing in at the tap. Lower the heater's temperature and open the tap fully hot to test; if it continues, service is needed.

Scaled element, thermostat setting or fault, or a spent anode rod. Descaling and anode replacement are part of periodic maintenance — every 2–3 years.

An instant heater (gas or electric) heats water on demand with no tank — endless hot water. A storage heater holds a set volume and needs time to recover. With gas available, an instant gas heater is cheaper to run.

Open-flue units may not be installed in bathrooms or bedrooms; they carry a carbon-monoxide risk. Switching to a room-sealed model is our recommendation; flue and ventilation are checked on site.